Having a rental car especially paid off in Bosnia-Herzegovina. Parts of the drives from Mostar to Sarajevo and Sarajevo to Dubrovnik were jaw-droppingly gorgeous. It also allowed us to stay in a studio apartment a little outside of the center and reach the hauntingly beautiful abandoned 1984 Winter Olympics sites and inspiring Tunnel of Hope Museum on our own time.
The overcast and rainy weather we faced in Sarajevo contributed to an overall feeling of melancholy. The scars from the Croat-Bosniak war in the early 90’s are still fresh, as they continually uncover new bodies and landmines remain littered in the surrounding hills. Regardless, this is a fascinating place to visit to understand what seemingly impossible hardships human determination can overcome.